Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Rock'n'rollercoaster theme song


A very rare japanese version of the single
containing the Immigarant song

In the early days of planning we where, once again, very inspired by the 'Immigrant Song' by Led Zeppelin.

For us both this is a recurring facination so it quickly became the themesnong for the road trip to end all road trips - The rock'n'rollercoaster!

The lyrics are more apt and fitting than anyone could have envisioned at first.

The song was written by Jimmy Page, Robert Plant of Led Zeppelin in 1970 on their Iceland tour in just 6 days.

Plant reveiled, in a later interview, that the song is inspired by the Viking mythos and the quest for Vinland (North America) and dedicated to Leif Ericson who found and settled in New Foundland around year 1000. A fitting forebearer of our own exploration of this, still largely, wild and strange continent

The lyrics make explicit refferences to Viking conquest and exploration. The song contains key phraces like these:
- We come from the land of the ice and snow.
- The hammer of the gods.
- Will drive our ships to new lands, to fight the horde, singing and crying:Valhalla, I am coming!
- Our only goal will be the western shore.
- So now youd better stop and rebuild all your ruins, for peace and trust can win the day, despite of all your losing.

I hope it is clear, at least to the persistent reader, how perfect and fitting a theme song we had have chosen, and just how well it embodies the whole adventure!

Please have a listen and feel the rush of the rock'n'roller experience:


Thursday, October 23, 2008

Evening and rolling hills


After a good long drive through the desert I removed the pillow from my face and started enjoying the scenery again. As the sun moved lower in the sky and the light mercifully softened, we drove into the San Bernadino mountains. I was instantly reminded of a Frank Zappa song about San Ber'dino jail of course and watched the hills roll by with great interest.


They were very old and softly rounded granite mountains, mostly covered in yellowish grass and dotted with trees. It somehow had a Middle Earth feel to it, a very Tolkien like landscape.



It was very beautiful and as the sun set, it all became soft shadows and gold.


As darkness fell we pulled up at a shabby diner in a little town. Ivan has marked this diner on the map under the name Worst diner in the world! And indeed it was. Horrible food. Just horrible. The locals were friendly though and brought out maps and made suggestions for nice little towns to spend a day in on our way to San Fransisco.

I was a little nervous and thinking about Dave, the man I met in New Orleans. We had been writing to each other a lot after I left and well, I was feeling a rather large pack of bats fluttering around in my stomach a lot of the time. After midnight it would be his birthday and I wanted to do something nice. So after a good deal of brotherly encouragement I went outside the diner and called Coops Place back in NO, and asked the bartender Adam, to give Dave a bottle of whiskey from me. He was happy to help and so Dave received a bottle of birthday Jameson from a blushing and slightly nervous Dane in a dark parking lot outside The Worst Diner in the World in a flyspeck little town out west.

Las Vegas

After our chat with the neighbors of the Shoe tree we continued our drive towards Vegas. it had gotten a little late, and after a few hours of enjoyable evening driving we found ourselves in complete darkness speeding through the emptiness of the desert. Quiet, darkness and more darkness. And then a thin band of light steadily growing in the horizon. It quietly grew in the blackness into a vast, golden shimmering lake of light drawing us in. It was quite spectacular. It grew and grew as we came closer until at last we were engulfed in a bright chaos and the traffic instantly turned murderously confusing and stressful and the sharp vulgarity of it all overwhelmed completely.

We finally found our way into the Flamingo Hotel, a classic Vegas hotel on the Strip, known for mob murders and the related drama. We were naturally tired and just wanted to collapse in our room. But the place was huge beyond belief and felt and looked mostly like an airport stuffed with shops and casinos. After some exhausting confusion and bewilderment we got checked in and found our room.

In the morning we marveled at the view over the palm tree garden in the middle of the hotel grounds and ventured back out into the hotel ground floor. It took us a long time to find our way out of the hotel and into the street. When we finally got there, I regretted it imidiately. The heat was a hitherto unknown agony and the light was horribly sharp. There were people bustling everywhere, music blaring and flashing lights and everything enormous and polished looking. We went to see Caesars Palace, which Ivan thought was really rather awesome.

I didn't like it much, and was increasingly getting the feeling that Vegas didn't agree with me. I clutched my coffee and tried to avoid looking at bright surfaces.

We took refuge inside and walked around for a long time in a sort of mall with casinos in it... inside this building, they had a plastic Rome with a painted canvas sky and even worse a plastic Paris.



It was perfectly hideous. Ivan had the mental capacity and stability to laugh at it all and even thought some of it was kinda neat, where as I just felt increasingly sickened. Sensitive and a victim of my imagination as I am, I felt like I was walking inside a tremendous, bloated, squelching, money-devouring monster.

After perusing like this for a while we settled down at a black Jack table and started gambling. Our two dealers were very nice and good company and people with trays started bringing us booze. I slowly started feeling comfortable and we ended up spending most of a day gambling and drinking and having a great time of it. I fairly quickly lost the money I had alloted to gambling, but Ivan kept it going all day and actually managed to come out even in the end. All the while we talked to the other gamblers and generally had a gay old time.


Apart from the gambling which was good fun, I must admit, I couldn't stand the place. Ivan enjoyed it though and appreciated the grandeur.

The next morning, we got our bags into the car and got ready to take off. I was getting a rather bad stress reaction to the place by now and couldn't lift my eyes from the floor without it hurting them. I got in the car, pressed my pillow from the Austin Holiday Inn down over my eyes and and thankfully let Ivan drive us back out into the desert.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

The Shoe Tree

after trudging back from our hike in the Narrows we got in the car, which was packed and ready and headed towards our next destination... Las Vegas. Shortly after leaving Zion and driving through a rather thinly populated area, we past something strange by the road. Ivan stopped and I went over to take a look.

Shoes were hanging from all the branches. Apparently this is a recurring phenomenon in the States. I really thought the thing looked kind of creepy and menacing. I mean, look at it!

A little further down on the other side of the road, was a couple in the garden in front of their house. The man was mowing the lawn and the woman was taking the dogs for some evening air. Ivan told me to go ask them about the tree and so I did.

The woman complained that she was terribly tired of that tree, because people behaved most irresponsibly on the road in order to see it!! And they constantly used their driveway to turn and go back to it. But, she said, she was sorry to come off all angry and asked me, where I was headed. Ivan came down and the husband joined us. We spend half an hour having a nice chat about our journey, and the cruise to Europe they were planning and how it was living in that area... They were nice people, just like most Americans we have met. Ivan suggested they set up a booth with brochures about the Shoe Tree and lemonade, in order to make a profit from the annoyance. They thought this sounded like a neat idea, but didn't look too keen. We said our goodbyes and continued on. It had gotten a little late, but we felt its always worth taking out some time to chat up the locals.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Zion - the Narrows


We continued on the shuttle to the last hike on the route - and the starting point of the Narrows. In this part of Zion the river cuts a deep path through the mountains, which loom very high above on both sides.

For a long time we walked along beside the river, appreciating it immensely every time we got in the shade of the mountain sides.

Even though the heat had really started to wear me down, it was a pleasurable walk and the landscape was stunning.

The light sent back from the cliffs was soft and pleasant, but the direct light was blindingly sharp, making the greyish stones and pieces of dead wood by the riverbank looked like giant piles of bleached bone.


At last we came to the point where the trail stopped and the river-hike into the Narrows began. To move beyond this point one had to walk in the river itself. Ivan climbed on top of a boulder sticking out over the river and made a heroic speech of his intentions to go forth into the watery depths.

On a rock just below him sat a cute little forest critter. It didnt care about us at all.

It even climbed up on Ivans speach-rock while we were still there. Complete disregard.


We descended into the river. The view down along the Narrows was breathtaking and getting into the water was vastly enjoyable.

As I have mentioned, the day was horrifically hot and the shade and the coolness of the water was just magnificent. Never have I been so happy about the feeling of water running into my boots!


Getting our body temperatures down like this was very refreshing and we felt energized enough to hike trough the water in the Narrows for a while.

Of course the river bottom was very rocky and the going was slow and something of a balancing act. After a few near falls we ventured on holding hands to steady each other, a rare and for our friends Im sure highly comical sight.





After wading and splashing along happily like this for a good while, we turned back and enjoyed the soft color-change as the sun sank lower behind the cliffs.


Zion - the hanging gardens


The day after Bryce we tumbled our sore muscles out of bed, stepped back in to our dusty hiking boots and headed for Zion. The road north took us through the mountainous landscape around Zion, completely and surprisingly different from Bryce.

The cliff sides where sheer, somewhere in sharp layers and somewhere in odd swirls and the curving and steep mountain road was a series of deadly accidents waiting to happen!




We arrived at the visitors center and parked the car, since all traffic through the park was limited to park shuttles. After a while of gazing out of shuttle windows we came to our first hike starting point. This was a short and relatively easy hike to a beautiful cliff side and gentle waterfall.

Cool drops were trickling down the entire cliff surface, dazzling in the sharp light. I was wonderfully cooling which was much needed, since the day was brutally hot and the sun seemed to beat down on me much harder than it had in Bryce.

There was a cool and shadowy space, beneath an outcrop in the cliff side. We sat there for a while, looking at the drops sparkeling down in front and the beautiful valley we had just walked along.


The sheer cliffs where adorned in patches with brush and little trees, and these are referred to as the hanging gardens of Zion. This we found out, has to do with layers of chalk in the mountains, and the way this effected the water flow. Even though the heat was murderous and the climate generally dry, there were broad strips of swamp plants, ferns, flowers and trees, because of the water running off the mountains and gathering in these patches.

It was really quite lovely.